How did your hip problems start?
By he time I was fifty, after I couldn't make my entire living on surfing anymore, I got a job bartending. I was working until 3:00 in the morning every day, going to bed when I got home, waking up and having to go right in and open the bar and start all over again. That schedule really did me in, and after a while I was about a hundred pounds overweight and wasn't surfing that much. I saw my doctor, who told me I was going to wind up getting diabetes and having a heart attack before the next two years were up. I said, "Oh, my God," and so I started going up and down the hundred steps that go down to the beach at Knob Hill in Redondo Beach. I dropped ninety pounds in four months by doing that and changing my diet. But I tried to surf and I couldn't stand up. I couldn't move. My legs were killing me and I went back to my doctor, who said, "I forgot to tell you that you need two hip replacements, too." I asked him why he didn't tell me that to begin with and he told me that he thought I wouldn't have lost all that weight and that no surgeon would take me seriously if I went in a hundred pounds overweight and with heart troubles and diabetes.